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Honeymoon in Germany: Berlin (Day 12)

We reserved our final day in Berlin for visiting landmarks that were within the city area; and what better way to do than cycling? Cycling is relatively easy in Berlin due to its flat topography and allocated bicycle lanes on the roads. Exploring cities on bicycles is always something we try to include in our itinerary; just our way of injecting some healthy living amongst the gorging. We signed up for the All-in-One Bike Tour with Fat Tire Bike, which was quite highly rated on TripAdvisor and held every Wednesday and Saturdays during winter. No reservation was required, we just had to show up at the TV tower (Fernsehturm) at Alexanderplatz at 11am.

After around 10 minutes of waiting, they gathered us for a short briefing and dividing us into groups of fifteen-twenty; each group had a guide and ours was Tim from USA. We then selected our bicycles and check them for faults, for some reason they were really comfortable to sit on and easy to ride; totally unlike the ones in East Coast Park that makes your ass hurt after 15 minutes. Gloves and hats are essential as it can get pretty cold so make sure you bundle up!

For the first half of the trip, we rode by Museum Island and went to Humboldt University at Bebelplatz, French Cathedral at Gendarmenmarket, Checkpoint Charlie, the remaining Berlin Wall and the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe. Then we took a long, leisurely cycle through the Berlin Tiergarten and had lunch at a beer garden.

Recharged, we continued on the second half of the tour visiting the Victory Column, Reichstag Building and Brandenburger Tor before ending the tour back at the shop. We paid at the end of the tour and the Berlin WelcomeCard gave us 25% discount off the tour prices (18€ after discount).

At each stop, Tim provided some historical stories and interesting facts before giving us some time to explore and take photos. According to him, each tour guide presents the information in their own unique way and Tim frequently used chalk drawings to supplement his stories. The tour lasted a comfortable 5 hours and it was well-paced, entertaining and informative; highly-recommended for anyone who is visiting Berlin and knows how to ride a bicycle!

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Honeymoon in Germany: Berlin (Day 11)

For Day 11, we visited Sachsenhausen Memorial and Museum which used to be a concentration camp for Jews during WWII, it has now been converted into a memorial to educate people on the horrors of what happened to the prisoners during the war. The place was pretty far out from the city centre but still accessible by their local train network. We took the S-bahn to Oranienburg station followed by another 15-20 minute walk with numerous signs guiding the way; if you don’t fancy the long walk, there are also buses that take you there from the station but they only arrive in an hourly interval.

Entry to the memorial is free and we paid 3€ for the audio commentary guides to help us understand the exhibits a little bit better. The amount of information provided by the audio guides was extensive; each exhibit have at least four sections to listen to and almost all of the sections included sub-sections such as interviews of the actual inmates describing the conditions of the camp during their internment.  It was heart-breaking to hear how the prisoners were treated, and we got really cold because of the strong winds so we couldn’t imagine how bad it must have been. The memorial now is mainly open space with only a few buildings preserved to show the cramped and inhumane living conditions of that time. We spent about 3 hours and we only managed to listen to about 60% of the guide; we went away humbled but very impressed by the efforts to dedicate this site to mourn and remember of those who have suffered.

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After the rather somber day, we made a visit to the Panaromapunkt. It was one of Berlin’s best lookout point to get a bird’s eye view of the rest of the city and our WelcomeCard gave us a small discount off the admission prices. We went up at a good timing as we caught a magnificent sunset together with the rest of the city view.

Finally, on a more joyful note, we visited Ritter Sport Colorful Chocoworld! Conveniently located near Brandenburg Tor, it was a Ritter Sport themed shop where we could custom make our own very own Ritter Sport chocolate bar. The chocolates here are slightly more expensive than the ones in Stuttgart and have lesser variety but it is a good alternative if you have lesser time in Germany.

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Honeymoon in Germany: Berlin (Day 10)

The first half of Day 10 in Berlin was a day trip to Wolfsburg. It is the site of the Volkswagen headquarters and also the world largest car plant. The Autostadt, is an attraction just next to the Volkswagen factory and features automobiles as their main theme of attraction. Taking the bahn out of Berlin Hbf, we reached Wolfsburg Hbf in about 2 hours. Afterwards, it was an easy 10 minutes walk to reach the Autostadt.

The Autostadt is made up of several areas and buildings and a number of tours are available as well. We opted for the car tower ascent tour which was a tour of how manufactured cars were stored automatically. The museum featured a few of vintage models of the Kombi, our favourite vehicle. It was also possible to purchase a Volkswagen and arrange to pick up the car (with the odometer at 0.00) at the plant, where you get complimentary access to the Autostadt and a free tank of petrol. If you have a European or international license, you can try some of the all terrain track driving experience or the safety training driving track. Since we did not have international driving licenses, they kindly gave us three rides to experience the driving technology in newest models of Volkswagen cars in the Ausfahrt.

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We headed to the Sony Center for the Potsdamer Platz Christmas Market. Sony Center is the only place in Berlin to catch the latest blockbusters in English and they had a large display of Smaug guarding his pile of gold from The Hobbit: The Desolation of Smaug! There was also a Legoland Discovery Centre with a number of Christmas themed Lego-made statues in its vicinity. As we walked along the streets filled with Christmas markets we found ourselves within walking distance from the Brandenburger Tor!

Finally, we visited the Gendarmenmarkt, the only Christmas market that required a nominal entrance fee. It was located in a square surrounded by many landmarks and seemed to be extremely popular as proven by the massive crowd.

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Honeymoon in Germany: Berlin (Day 9)

We arrived in Berlin Hbf around on Christmas Day and quickly located the automated sales machines to purchase the Berlin WelcomeCard that gave unlimited rides on all buses and rail lines within the Berlin area. As with most travel passes, you can purchase cheaper options if you are not planning to travel too far out of the city center. We purchased the card that included zone C, this covered locations like Schönefeld Airport and Potsdam. The WelcomeCard includes discounts for tours and admission tickets and even restaurants, so it’s quite a good deal for its price.

The city bahn network is very extensive but not as easy to navigate as the previous cities. Due to the division between East and West Germany back in the Cold War their transport systems were developed separately and independently.The government has tried their best to unify the transport systems but there are still kinks to work out. Which means the platforms of the U-bahn and S-bahn of a particular station may or may not connected; for these instances we would have to exit the station and look for the other.

We made our way to Maria’s apartment at Schonhauser Allee which was a charming old estate area populated by mostly young immigrants; wall art is a common feature in the neighborhood. It was Christmas Day but luckily thankfully, after some prior research, we knew that the Berlin Zoo will be open. In addition to the zoo, animals can also be viewed in a separate location know as the Tierpark Berlin. The Zoo-Aquarium was located within the zoo and can be visited by getting an additional discounted ticket. There was tremendous biodiversity in the zoo’s exhibits, and the animals were housed in large natural enclosures.

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Berlin has tons of Christmas markets and luckily for us, some of them are open for a few more days after Christmas. The first one we visited was the one at Charlottenburg, just a few bus stops away from the zoo. We also visted a small Christmas market within walking distance from the zoo, the Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church Christmas market.

We had our dinner at The Bird, touted as Berlin’s best burger place and they were open on Christmas Day too. We made reservations through email to avoid the long queue. The burgers were juicy, the portions were huge, so make sure you come with an empty stomach! We were stuffed and re-energized, so we decided to visit yet another Christmas market at Alexanderplatz.

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Honeymoon in Germany: Freiburg (Day 8)

Christmas Eve is kind of a big deal in Germany; think Chinese New Year in Singapore when everyone goes visiting and it just becomes a ghost town. Anyone who visits Germany during Christmas season will face difficulties planning for activities on Christmas Eve; 90% of shops, restaurants and attractions will be closed by noon when everyone heads home to spend the rest of the day with their families. It was especially difficult since Freiburg was a small town but a handful of attractions were still open; the Deutsches UhrenmuseumTier-Natur-Erlebnispark Mundenhof and Erlebniswelt Schlossberg.

On Day 8 we did some last minute shopping in Freiburg and took a leisurely walk to the Talstation of the Schlossberg-bahn. To get to the Bergstation we can either take the automatic tram up or a long hike; we decided on the former as we didn’t want to be too ambitious. From the Bergstation, we took a short hike further up to the Schlossberg-Turm to take in some panoramic views of Freiburg. Be warned: the tower may look small but it’s pretty tall and it gets scarily windy on the top!

After the hike, we went back to the hotel and had lunch at a döner restaurant near our hotel, this was one of the few places that was going to be open on Christmas Eve! We spent the rest of the day relaxing in the hotel and waited excitedly for our overnight train to Berlin. Since the trip from Freiburg to Berlin will take around 8 hours, it was more time efficient to spend it on a sleeper train. The City Night Line (Sirius) leaves Freiburg Hbf at 9.58pm and will be scheduled to arrive in Berlin Hbf at 7.15am and it was our most expensive accommodation of our trip! We wanted to book the first class cabin initially as it came with a private bathroom but the Sparpreis tickets were released much later than the second class tickets; by then we had already booked the second class tickets. Darn it!

We were not mentally prepared for the size of the second class cabin since we only had pictures on the website as reference; it was so tiny that one of us had to wait outside the cabin while the other changed. Our luggage was too large to fit in the cabin, luckily the conductor kindly offered to lock them up in another empty cabin. The bed however, was surprisingly comfortable and the gentle movement of the train rocked us to sleep in no time. We enjoyed the train ride very much, although I can’t guarantee the same experience for someone who is much taller or bigger than us.

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Honeymoon in Germany: Freiburg (Day 6 to 7)

Our train ride to Freiburg im Breisgau took 2 hours and required a transfer in Mannheim. Freiburg im Breisgau is a small university town at the edge of the Black Forest. There was a light rain and very strong winds when we arrived, thankfully our hotel was only a short walk from the station, but that did not stop the winds from destroying our umbrellas. We chose Hotel Novotel Freiburg am Konzerthaus as there were limited Airbnb options in Freiburg. We tried to persuade them to upgrade our rooms since it was our honeymoon but they were unable to do so, but they did try to decorate our room 🙂

Freiburg was a small town connected by trams, we initially wanted to purchase the Regio24 but we realized that it wasn’t necessary since we could just travel on foot. We made our way to the Freiburg Christmas market shortly after checking into the hotel. It was small, cozy and surprisingly lively even with the erratic drizzling; it felt like everyone in the city was there and having a good time.

On Day 7 we explored the rest of the town, luckily for us it was bright and sunny! We loved the quaint, surban-ish atmosphere of Freiburg, it was a nice change of pace from the hustle and bustle of the city. There are small canals running through the town, used for firefighting in the olden days. Legend has it that if you fall into one, you would marry a ‘Freiburger’!

We visited the farmers’ market at the Freiburger Münster before having lunch at a restaurant called Tacheles, which was famous for its schnitzels and their generous portions.

The second half of day 7 was originally planned for train ride on the Black Forest Line but we scrapped it and visited Switzerland instead! The layout of the international borders meant that Freiburg is a short distance away from the cities of Basel, Switzerland; the fascination that I was just a 30 minute train ride away from another country was overwhelming, so I had to do it!

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Honeymoon in Germany: Stuttgart (Day 5 to 6)

We woke up pretty early on Day 5, so we cooked some simple breakfast and took a stroll in Schlossplatz where the Christmas market was in full swing the night before. It was so peaceful and beautiful in the morning, a totally different but equally amazing experience.

We strolled towards the Konigstrasse, where the wife was able to get some decent buys in Mango and H&M; they were much more affordable than their Singapore outlets. There was also bread everywhere; and they always look so delicious! We checked out the morning market stalls selling an assortment of fruits,vegetables and flowers and also donated some coins to search and rescue dogs.  For lunch, we located a famous kebab stall near Ruben’s apartment, Beykebab, the wife was not a fan of mutton so she didn’t find it as satisfying as I did.

The second half of Day 5 was set aside for Ludwidsburg, famous for a baroque-themed Christmas market. We took a long walk from the S-bahn station to the Residential Palace, taking in the sights as we go. The sun started to set as we were walking in the gardens, which gave us the signal to head to the Ludwidsburg Christmas market. Located in the Marktplatz, it was just a smidgen compared to the one in Stuttgart; nevertheless it had its own unique charm and variety of food.

We checked out of Ruben’s apartment the next day, and made use of our City Ticket to get to the Hbf to catch our train to Freiburg. We said a reluctant goodbye to Stuttgart, both of us agreeing that this was our favourite city in Germany.

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Honeymoon in Germany: Stuttgart (Day 3 to 4)

We (or I) were really looking forward to taking the Bahn; I love taking trains and German trains are known to be punctual and comfortable. To ensure we sat together we paid 4€ per person (6€ without the Bahncard) to reserve our seats on-board in second class. Food can be purchased while onboard from the Bordbistro and our luggage was too huge to be placed next to or above us, so we had to leave it in the designated area.

Seasoned travellers on the Bahn don’t usually reserve their seats. We gradually realized how it works the more trains we took. If a seat is reserved, you will see an indicator on top of the seats. The following seat 66 and 68 here states ‘Stuttgart to Mannheim’ which means that the seat is reserved for two passengers travelling from Stuttgart to Mannheim.

What this translates to is that the seat is free for anyone travelling to Stuttgart. These passengers will just have to change their seats when the rightful two passenger who reserved the seats board the train at Stuttgart. Once we knew how to do this, we started to move around to different seats just for the fun of it.

After about 2 hours, we arrived in Stuttgart. It took us some time to find the tourist information center where we purchased the 3 Day Ticket that gave unlimited rides on all buses and rail lines within the Stuttgart area. Before using this ticket, it has to be validated by inserting them into the validating machines found on the platforms on all railways.

We made our way to Ruben’s apartment in Rathaus using the U-bahn, the cobbled streets were beautiful but it was not as nice when we had to drag our luggage on them. After settling down, we headed to Esslingen! It was already pretty dark when we arrived and there was a light drizzle, but that didn’t dampen the spirits of the Medieval Christmas market. The owners of the stalls were all dressed up in Medieval costumes; there was even a games section and some theme rides, this is a great place for kids. Having some energy in us, we climbed up the steps of Esslingenburg for a stunning night view of the city.

Day 4 was a visit to Mercedes-Benz Museum! The entrance ticket came with an audio guide which you can activate and listen to the details of each exhibit as you visit, this really helped since it was quite tiring reading the exhibits one after another. I found the modern designs to be more interesting while the wife prefers looking at the classic designs.

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Next up was Museum Ritter! The wife was extremely excited about this trip and even though I wasn’t a fan of chocolates, I eventually found it a great place for purchasing gifts for friends and family. It was not an easy place to get to; we had to take the S-Bahn to Leinfelden station, take bus 86/826 towards Waldenbuch, alight at Waldenbuch Postamt. Once we got off the bus, there were various signs showing us how to walk to the museum. The shop had the widest collection of Ritter Sport chocolates with every flavour and size imaginable. They even have testing flavors for sale and also random combination of assorted flavours that were selling at a discount. We exited the shop after an hour with 7 kilograms worth of chocolates; we had to buy a Ritter Sport bag to carry them.

We dropped our chocolates in Ruben’s apartment and went to the Stuttgart Christmas market situated mainly in Charlottenplatz, but it extends far beyond the area. This Christmas market is highly regarded as one of the best and largest Christmas market in Germany and we couldn’t agree more! There are numerous stalls selling gluwein, sausages, roasted chestnuts and there’s even a skating rink! The crowd was massive, there were Christmas lights and decor everywhere and it was such a great feeling to be able to experience it together.

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Honeymoon in Germany: Munich (Day 1 to 3)

It was still dark when we arrived in Munich Airport, we brought our outerwear in our cabin luggage and we quickly ‘suit-up’ before exiting the plane. It wasn’t too cold, partly because we were still indoors. But when we had to walk across the open-air atrium to the S-bahn, it got really cold, really quickly! To make matters worse the train platform was outdoors, so we had to deal with the cold while waiting for our train to arrive. We used the Airport-City-Day-Ticket to get to Veronika’s apartment in Hirschgarten. This ticket covers all forms of transport within the Munich area and the partner ticket can cover up to 5 adults, but even for two of us it was well worth the price. To make full use of this ticket, visit places outside the inner district of Munich i.e. Neuschwanstein Castle, on the day of your arrival. For day 2, we used the Partner Day Ticket. *Do take note, the train doors do not open automatically, you have to press a small circular button. We almost missed our stop because of that! Luckily, Germans are nice, helpful people 🙂

After settling down at Veronika’s apartment, we cooked a quick meal and made our way to Nymphenburg Palace. It was a leisurely walk through Hirshgarten, followed by a short tram ride. The park was huge; filled with joggers, cyclists, people with their children and pets. We viewed the Nymphenburg Palace from the outside and strolled through the park in the brisk cold winter morning. We don’t get to see much wildlife in Singapore; so for us seeing swans gliding along the lakes and geese flying in V formation are such amazing and unique sights.

Afterwards it was off to Viktualienmarkt at Marienplatz for lunch! Most of the Christmas market stalls were open and there was already a crowd. We strolled around the area, snacking along the way and finally found a shop selling the blauworld Allnet. The sales person was nice enough to help us activate the number using his laptop; the phone line was activated immediately while the data only 12 hours later. We were able to use the card to call all numbers in Germany (very useful for contacting our hosts) and the 1GB data plan was more than sufficient for navigation and surfing the internet during train rides.

Feeling the effects of jet-lag, we decided to go to REWE, a supermarket within walking distance from Hirschgarten, grabbed some groceries and headed back to our place for an early dinner and much needed sleep. On day 2, we visited the Deutsches Museum, the largest technical museum in the world. It is recommended that you dedicate an entire day to explore, but frankly we know we don’t have the stamina, but we did manage to last 4 hours before deciding it was time for lunch.

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We had lunch at the famous Hofbrauhaus Munchen! We ordered roast pork crackling, pork knuckle and apple strudel for dessert. The food was good and the service was quick, just that it was difficult initially to get the attention of the busy waiters/waitresses.

Next was a quick visit to the BMW headquarters, with their iconic four cylinder engine building. It was located near the Olympiapark, which we walked by for a quick look. There wasn’t any events going on so it was pretty deserted and quiet.

On day 3, we checked out of Veronika’s apartment and took the S-bahn to the Haupbahnhof (Hbf) to catch our train to Stuttgart, this cost was covered by the City-Ticket that came with the BahnCard. It was definitely an eye-opener entering the gigantic building with 10+ train platforms; looked more like an airport than a train station. There were lots of eateries in the area, so we didn’t have to worry about getting hungry.

That wraps up our short stay in Munich. We would have liked to stay longer in Munich as we didn’t manage to cover everything we wanted to, so we pledged to return to Munich for a proper visit next time in summer!

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Honeymoon in Germany & Iceland!

For our honeymoon we decided to visit Europe, but we were not interested in the cliche romantic places like Italy and France; the wife really couldn’t care less for those branded goods and architecture and the risk of scams and petty theft was just a turn-off for the pair of us. Therefore, we decided on a three week trip to Germany followed by Iceland and a short stopover in London. This gave us a good mix of affordable shopping, an overload of Christmas festivities, nature and a little bit of history and architecture. The bulk of the trip was based in Germany, where Christmas celebrations were in full swing! I l have always been very impressed by the Germans, so I was elated; I have much admiration for their efficient and disciplined work attitude and their developments in engineering, science and technology. Furthermore, I love PORK! So schnitzels, currywursts, bratwursts and pork knuckles are just up my alley. The flow of our trip was as follows:

  • 3 days in Munich
  • 4 days in Stuttgart
  • 2 days in Freiburg
  • 5 days in Berlin
  • 6 days in Iceland
  • 2 days in London

Preparation Work
Clothing (baby, it’s cold outside~)

It’s going to be 0 to 10°C in Germany and 1 to −10°C in Iceland, the coldest that we have ever experienced. So naturally everyone told us to wear thermal underwear. However in Europe, most indoor locations will have ample heating and the wife read somewhere that the sweating would cause terrible itching; so we decided to adopt wearing multiple layers of clothing to battle the cold. This will give us the flexibility of taking additional layers off when it becomes too warm and adding layers if it becomes too cold.

For the top half we wore a t-shirt, followed by a turtleneck long sleeve fleece/knitted t shirt and the final layer had to be a good quality wind and water proof jacket. The outer layers will have to be larger than your normal clothing size and in the instance you are still cold, you can add more inner layers. The wife bought a high end North Face jacket (those with two layers zipped together) but she felt that the down jacket she bought from Mango in Germany was much better at keeping her warm. I also bought a North Face down jacket which worked pretty well for me. So we feel that a down jacket is absolutely essential; though it makes you look puffy and the feathers will eventually all come out from the seams, it is still a good investment. Try to get  one with hoods since they help keep your head dry and warm too.

For the bottom half, the wife had a pair of pants from Uniqlo which worked very well during our trip to Alishan, this pants had fleece lined on the inner parts and a windproof outer layer. Not the most stylish, but it works extremely well. Avoid a similar model from Cold Wear as it was not as durable as the one from Uniqlo, plus they are about the same price. The wife wore an additional 2XU compression tights on the inside when it got colder.

For our hands, we also adopted the layering method; it was especially needed in Iceland as one pair of gloves was not good enough to keep our fingers warm. So we had normal cotton gloves and additional waterproof ones. Try not to go for those furry Daiso gloves, they don’t work as well as the knitted ones.

For our heads and necks, we had scarfs and woolen hats. When it gets too cold or windy, the hoods on our jackets were essential. The wife’s face was not too accustomed to the cold so she also had a buff for extra protection.

Transport
The Bahn website is extremely helpful when planning your travel route between places, you just need to key in the starting and final station/location/street and a list of transport suggestions will be given. This was also where we booked all our intercity tickets. Since we used trains as the main transportation between the cities, we decided to buy the BahnCard 25 which gave us 25% off on all ticket prices. Try to confirm your itinerary and order the tickets three months in advance (special price early bird tickets), this way you will recoup the costs of the BahnCard, which we did with the purchase of Munich-Stuttgart tickets. Another perk for buying the BahnCard is that it comes with a City-Ticket that covers the cost of public transport for a single trip from the city to the departure station and another single trip from the arrival station to a point in the city. Within the city, we used tourist or day passes that allowed us to travel all on trains (Bahn), subways (U-Bahn/S-Bahn), trams and buses. We will elaborate on the passes we bought for each city in further posts.

The ticketing system in Germany rides heavily on integrity, we only encounter conductors on the intercity Bahn and very rarely on the inner-city transport system. Therefore, it is absolutely possible for someone to take advantage of this system and freeload or what some people say, travel on a budget. But we loathe travellers who think like this and we hope others don’t follow in their footsteps. To reduce our travel costs, we book earlier so we could get discounts and we made sure to purchase day tickets that only covered the zones we wanted to go.

Asian Food and Snacks
We knew we will definitely miss the food in Singapore and that Asian food produce like rice will be expensive in Europe. Furthermore, eating out will not be cheap either, so we made sure to stay in apartments with a well-equipped kitchen and eat in for breakfast and dinner as much as possible; that really helped to cut down on expenses and we still managed to have German food. We brought the following items from Singapore: chili sauce, instant noodles, raw rice, canned food (i.e. ba ding, ba jiu) and 旺旺 biscuits. Fresh produce like sausages, vegetables and bread were purchased from nearby supermarkets. They were much cheaper and fresher than the ones sold in Singapore.

Others
We were going to be overseas for three weeks and there is no way we wanted to get sick! It will be easy to catch a cold due to the weather, become heaty because of the lack of water and the food we ate and possibly indigestion. So we made sure we had the usual to combat bites, cold, flu and stomach upsets i.e. paracetamol, po chai pills, tiger balm, herbal tea, ginseng tea, ENO, etc. I specially got some pills from my TCM to battle ‘heatiness’ too.

Moisturizer is extremely important. It is cold and dry so nose bleeds, cracking lips and peeling faces are some of the common effects. Therefore bring along a good moisturizer, lip balm and Vaseline. We actually put Vaseline in our noses to prevent it from bleeding and it works extremely well!

Looking at the amount of things we had to bring and that we had to do quite a bit of walking with our luggage; we had to do some planning. So each of us got a humongous trolley luggage and a backpack, plus a small sling back or chest pouch for our valuables. It was not easy to move around, especially when some places were not wheelchair accessible. However, the cold weather made it a lot easier!

We had a blast in Europe! If you are interested to see where we went, this map shows a rough guide. We didn’t manage to visit all the marked out places (particularly the restaurants) as we intended, but for those that we did, we will talk about it in upcoming posts. Stay tuned!